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How To Paint Things
The new kitchen was a horror story. The paint was so dreadful that every time I went to wipe down the cupboards, I wondered what the point was. The only things that didn’t have chipped and battered paint had no paint at all and were just bare boards. So it was time for a repaint job.
How did I go about that paint job? We’ll skip over the process involved in choosing the paint colours. This was worked out by looking at budgets, at the amount of light in the kitchen and personal preference (the end result was mostly cream with bottle green on the dado rails and the cupboards). Whether you use oil based or water based is also up to you as well.
However, as kitchens can get quite steamy unless you have an extractor and/or a dehumidifier, water based paints can get soft and vulnerable to scratching. I would not use water-based paints in the bathroom, for instance (I’ve seen this done). As we chose water-based paint for our kitchen, we protected the area around the cupboard handles with strips of stick-on vinyl that looked like black marble.
The bare boards were the easiest things in the kitchen to paint. They needed very little preparation. First of all, any bare untreated wood that needs painting should be clean and free from dust and grime. Otherwise, you’ll be painting the grime, not the wood, and the paint will peel off easily. It will also look lumpy and awkward. If you need to use water to clean the wood before painting, let it dry thoroughly before continuing the preparation process. After that, the wood needs to be sanded thoroughly all over. This increases the surface area of the wood to be painted (after sanding, it is full of minute scratches and hollows) so the paint has more to stick on.
Then you can paint your otherwise untreated wood. When you paint, work from top to bottom (unless you are painting a horizontal surface) and work in one direction. You can see for yourself why working on one direction only is best by experimenting with a felt pen or crayon in a kid’s colouring book – going back and forth in long smooth strokes all going in the same direction gives a nice, even finish, while criss-crossing and changing direction makes a rough finish. If you are painting raw wood with a grain as opposed to fibreboard, working in the same direction as the grain can be good, as any marks left by the brushstrokes will follow the grain and work with it.
The cupboards were a different story. Here, the old flaking paint had to be removed first, or else it would just keep flaking and take the new paint with it. As a matter of fact, this is precisely why the paint on those cupboards was peeling – and you could see the orange and olive colour scheme (definitely painted in the 1970s) beneath the pale grey and pastel yellow (1980s). If you merely want to add a new layer of paint, then all you need to do is remove as much loose paint as possible with a scraper and/or a wire brush – but be careful not to gouge the wood – then sand it smooth. Hand held sandpaper can do the job, but it’s much easier with a proper belt sander, for which you will have to wear a mask. Once you’ve got the surface free of any flakiness and have sanded it so it feels like suede or velour, then it’s time to paint.
If you need to paint cupboard doors that screw on with hinges or are otherwise removable, the paint job is much easier if you remove them and lay them flat. It’s also wise to remove the handles if you can, so they don’t get splattered with paint. If you want a two-tone job on the cupboards like we did, use masking tape along the edge of where you’re painting to protect the place where you will/have put the other colour.
If you want to remove the paint completely so the wood below can be seen (and treated with varnish to protect it, make it easy to clean and make it glossy), you will need a stripper (cue for cheesy, bawdy old Carry On style jokes). Either get a professional stripper in (more sniggers) or try your hand with the ferocious chemicals and/or heat torches needed to remove old paint. If you hire a handyman London to do that job for you, he will be definitely equipped with it. Once all the paint that some Philistine plastered over that lovely oak door has completely gone, then start the sand and paint routine.
Interior plaster walls and ceilings are easier to paint. If they have never been painted before, all you need to do is make sure the dust has been brushed off and away you go. If they have been painted or papered, once again, you need to go through the peel-off-the-flakies-then-sand-like-heck process before the fun of painting starts.
About the Author
Nick Vassilev is the founder of successful carpet cleaning London and domestic cleaning London businesses delivering quality cleaning services to thousands of clients.
How a Kandy/Candy Paint Works
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Art Works:Painting: Interactive Art Instruction Book, Hardcover, preowned $0.75 |
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Allway Tool Inc. Mp Ss Mini Wire Brush Smb Wire/Scrub Brushes $0.72 Master Painter, Stainless Steel Bristle, Mini Wire Brush, Soft Grip Handle, Extra Cluster Of Bristles For Tight Spots…. |
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Wagner 518080 Control Spray Max HVLP Sprayer $129.99 The Wagner Control Spray Max combines variable air pressure control, a metal spray gun, and a powerful two-stage turbine to make it easier to paint walls and surfaces with latex paints and thinner materials, like lacquers and stains. This sprayer provides three spray patterns for versatility, and a 20-foot flex air hose to extend your reach. Its Lock-n-Go front end makes material changes quick and… |